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Just wanted to say thank you, It worked. Best video for the job.

The best video I’ve seen on this part replacement! Very good job! 🎉❤

Where did you find the dropped bolt from the MFD ?? I dropped the same one & have not found it yet ! Fantastic video.

Thanks great video

Just put one in our 2007 Prius and it went pretty much as you showed it except my vents, all but one, came out in pieces. They were really brittle. Have to see if I can find some new pieces..

The 2007 prius is different the air bag is connected to the dash panel of the instrument cluster.

I didn't find a children's clif bar in mine when I took out the battery. Is that part necessary for proper functioning of the car?

If only I knew this BEFORE I lost my transponder key ! X.x

June 7, 2024. I watched your video step-by-step and just completed my replacing my cluster. Awesome video! Thank you so much a great help

Your Video was a great help, Thank you.

I was able to follow this video step by step, and I've never worked on my car before. It works like brand new! Thank you sir!!!!

Thank you so very much for this! It was pretty intimidating seeing my dashboard in my trunk, but your video is so thorough and everything worked out perfectly. We ended up soldering a 220uf capacitor the old one’s place and I can finally see how fast I am going and how much gas I have. All of my vent trim cracked, it was sun beat from being in Florida most of its life. So $100.50 later instead of $1000 later, I feel like I have a new car.

Did my 2008 Prius today. Video was a great help. I purchased four new AC/heater vent trim pieces ahead of time. Good thing. Even using the lightest touch the 16 year old plastic was too fragile to remove without breaking. All other plastic was okay. My greatest difficulty was carefully disconnecting the various electrical plugs. It seems each one comes apart differently from the others. Best tutorial I have found, thank you!

Hello sir . That problem same me but I try fix like you still not work . How solution to fix

My advice below, after completing the operation. Best tutorial here, thank you! Well worth the effort. Tips / Hacks: -Schedule several hours to do this, esp first time -Tablet or laptop to watch video while working (phone is too small) -Pill box to keep like screws together in order (one w/ the weekdays, any drug store) -Two med boxes, one on either side of car for dash components as you remove them -Empty your front seats, floor, both glove boxes (remove the bottom one entirely, with support under, and keep contents in). You don't want anything in the way during this. -Tools: Long needle-nose pliers, small phillips and flathead screwdrivers (one long, one right angle), rachet wrench, 10mm and 12mm sockets, bits w extensions for socket and screwdriver, cordless impact driver, compressed air, microfiber cloth, shop vac - Trim tools, a small plastic pry tool (spudger), and a plastic crowbar like the one shown. Also some pincers to remove wiring harnesses. All I had were metal pliers and screwdrivers, which chew up the small clips and fasteners you will encounter throughout this operation. Each harness has a different release mechanism, either button on front or two tabs on sides. -Pull the vent panels from UNDER the dash first to remove. The tops will be brittle from UV exposure and break on you. Gently pull them off bottom-up while supporting top. I destroyed one from trying to pry from the top. Save the pieces if this happens, you may be able to superglue back together later. Otherwise, they are relatively cheap to replace. -The biggest PITA across the board is dealing with plastic clips. Take your time and be gentle. Use a small flathead or plastic tool to pry up clips. Pincers or small needle nose pliers to squeeze sides of wire harnesses to release them and wiggle out. The barb-type clips are the worst. They insert into holes and expand. Pry those up from all sides and pinch to work loose. -Two 12mm bolts under the glove box were very tight on mine. They are difficult to access as well. Use the extension and you may need a breaker bar or tap the wrench handle w/ a mallet to get them lose, then unscrew with a drill. Be careful, you can easily drop screws and bolts and lose them. A magnet on a wand or stick might help once unscrewed. -Once you get the dash out, there are two types of screws to get to the combo meter: small black and the larger ones. There is a wire harness clipped across the front of the plastic protector that I found easier to move out of the way. Remove screws as directed to tilt the assembly up so you can get at that last screw at the bottom of the protector. You will need a long and small screwdriver to get to it. Once out, pop the tabs all around the perimeter of the white plastic protector to release it. -Be gentle releasing the blue ribbon wires from the meter. Instead of pinching, you slide the tabs out on the sides to release the ribbon as indicated. I broke one off, fortunately it was on the old meter but you need to be careful. This is a critical part of the operation, though I found it the easiest. -Zip everything back up on the dash and reinstall wire clips. -Before replacing the dash, you may want to take the opportunity to vacuum and dust in all the crevices under and around while you have it out. Compressed air can be used as well. -Yes, getting the dash back in place is awkward. Get another person to help if you can. Make sure it's all the way forward to the windshield and line up your clips. Plug your center speaker in FIRST (if you have one) before dropping in. -Take your time with the rest of the pieces. Don't force anything back in place--most likely, something is misaligned if it's not snapping in. Back it out and inspect where the tabs are supposed to go, then line up and drop in from one side first. -Make sure you plug back in ALL the wire harnesses properly and screws go in the right place. Last thing you want is to have to disassemble again because you forgot to plug in the parking brake or airbag. -Good luck! I'm glad I did it and saved $800+ at the shop.

This is the best video 110%. 👍🙏😎

Repaired my 2007 Prius capacitor problem with your instruction and encouragement. I am not that young and not very handy and your explanation was excellent. The silver plastic dash trim pieces all shattered upon disassembly but replacement was $40 for all 4 and 10 capacitors were $7 so your video saved me at least $900 and allowed me to work through my fear of failure. Thank you so much!

Poop!

Awesome video. Thank you very much

Thanks!

Bad video graphing

Excellent video. Done in under 10 minutes... while providing excellent descriptions during the process. Now that's efficient and informative!

Great, what tool is used on 2:25? Adjustable clip removal tool?

Thank you very much, you helped me with the problem of my 2006 Toyota prius

Very good video helpful thank you 🎉😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😂

AWESOME VIDEO ❤

I am 68+ years old and need to have the combination meter in my 2009 Prius repaired, as the dash often goes dark. I have been reluctant to be taking my dash apart, just to get to it. However, after watching your UA-cam tutorial video is a big help in deciding to go ahead and do it. I saw where a 67 year old woman did it, so that was a deciding factor, don't have a garage, so will have to wait for decent weather. I have done other projects on my car with help of You Tube videos, been very helpful. I am somewhat mechanical inclined, will be working on details on where to send the unit once it's out of the car. Thank you so much!!

This was very informative and straight to the point. Thank you for making it look easy

just finished this repair! great guide -- all my air vents broke due to sun damage but i'll superglue that later :)

I'm definitely testing before the A pillar goes back on.

Is this something that I can really do myself?

How many volts and how many amperes should each cell have?

Thank you!!

I wanted to appreciate the author of the video for such a great pov tutorial. It’s really hard to be able to explain in such an easy manner. Than you!

I just completed this today. I viewed several other videos on this topic. This one is the most concise and no-nonsense. -Pulled out MFD (middle touch screen) but left connectors attached and propped it a little lower on dash so that I had room above it. It was somewhat in the way but manageable. If you have few connectors like in video, then disconnect. Otherwise my method is an option. -Removing the electrical connectors on all the various components is frustrating because it’s often hard to figure out how they release. Each one seems to be different. Follow the video but realize it might take you some time anyway because they don't pull apart and the release mechanism is sometimes hard to find or press. -Long needle nose pliers are a must-have tool for releasing the A-pillar covers (along vertical sides of front window). I just happened to have an 8-inch plier and I'd say that's the minimum size you need. Anything smaller and you probably can't get far enough under the cover to be able to twist it 90 degrees. -As mentioned in the video, the round plastic screw covers in the upper glove compartment are a pain to remove. After struggling with one, I figured out a way easier method... drill a hole in the center large enough to insert a small philips screwdriver. Then you can easily pop them out. It takes about 1 second to drill through the plastic cover, so do it gently to avoid messing up the screw head behind it. -There's no need to remove the passenger side vent that's next to the door. Leave it in place. -To minimize frustration and breaking plastic parts, get some plastic trim removal tools like shown in the video. They are under $10 and available at Harbor Freight or Amazon. -And if you are thinking about replacing or upgrading the speaker in the middle of the dash, do it in conjunction with this project. It was labeled as JBL 86160-0W890, and part #22504-F0041. Mounting holes are 9.2cm apart. Circle in dash is 2 3/16 diameter. I didn't measure the depth and I can't remember how much space below it is available for a deeper speaker.

Thanks so much for making this video. I’m stuck with getting the 12mm bolts out of the area under the dash. They just will not come! Any suggestions? I’m stuck at that point and need to proceed to send off the combination meter for repair. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Thanks!

Awesome, very good presentation 👍🏼, Thank you!

Thank you for this great video!!

My 2007 had been with the dashboard problem for several years and we were always postponing the fix because of the cost involved. After watching this great video I felt encourgauged to do it by myself. Your step-by-step instructuctions are so detailed that completely removed the fear of the challenging task. My car IS FIXED NOW. We have dashboard lights without to unplug and plug the battery back in. THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR GREAT EXPERIENCE! THIS VIDEO WAS PERFECT GUIDANCE!!!

Note: watcg videos on just replacing the capacitor, would cost you only $10 for it if you already have a soldering iron (which is only about $20)

This video just saved me $1,199.90. Replaced a 10 cent capacitor.

This is how a how to video should be done! Strait to the point. No wasted time. No BS. Excellent!

Excellent camera work.

Thank you. I just completed the whole process and my car is working fine now. I replaced a certain capacitor, so I did not get a new dash but it is working. Thank you again. You saved me a lot of money. Those dealerships need to be avoided.

Thank you for also showing the installation!

Did you disconnect the 12v battery first?

THANK YOU so much for sharing this! Very well done, in my opinion: good narration, good camera-work, etc.

Awesome video that leaves nothing out.

Thank you. You saved him $Thank you. You saved him $1,000. You are a respectable person, may God bless you, and in his car, he is a beautiful man, and you deserve support. 🌺🌺💝💝1,000. You are a respectable person, may God bless you, and in his car, he is a beautiful man, and you deserve support.❤❤❤❤